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When it comes to hair, I've pretty much done it all. I've permed it, straightened it, colored it, highlighted it, teased it, curled it, braided it, and styled it in just about every way imaginable (except I've never gone really short). So it's not shocking that I decided to do one of the latest fads in hair care - the Brazilian Keratin hair treatment.
What is the Brazilian Keratin treatment, you ask? Well, It is a smoothing and straightening process that you can get to help your hair be virtually maintenance free and frizz free. It's great for those with hair that tends to be frizzy and responds to humidity poorly, such as mine, and it also gives a lot of added shine to your hair, so it makes it look a lot healthier.
This treatment lasts anywhere from 3-5 months, depending on how often you shampoo your hair, since little by little the treatment does come out of the hair naturally, so if you are a person who doesn't shampoo very often, you may be in luck. The cost for this procedure, which takes about two to two and a half hours usually, depending on the length of your hair, runs an average of about 0 per hour.
This means your total bill will fall between 0 and 0 for the process, and you will also need to buy a special shampoo for it that usually runs about for a large bottle, so when it's all said and done, with the tip and shampoo, you're probably looking at an almost 0 bill, give or take a little. My bill happened to be about 5, and I have long hair. The process took 2½ hours for me, and it wasn't bad at all.
I've had the thermal reconditioning done before too (also known as Japanese straightening), and that process took about five hours all together and cost a little more. It also is supposed to last longer though, and your hair is so poker straight that it may not be in everyone's taste because it lacks body for a while.
It also has a pretty distinct smell during the process, while the Brazilian Keratin treatment I had, which was the Coppola brand (there are several on the market) did not smell at all during the process. I did notice a dull smell for the three days following the treatment, but it wasn't that bad.
Let's talk about the process and my experience now, and finally my review of what I think about it. I got to the salon at 3:30. The technician talked to me about what to expect, looked at my hair so she could gauge my hair's condition and it's texture, and told me that I would love my hair when she was done with it. She took me back to a shampoo chair where she washed my hair with an extremely clarifying shampoo, to make it more porous so the product can get into the hair more deeply.
When my hair was squeaky clean (literally squeaky, I thought what a nightmare it would be if I had to blow it dry right then and there, I'm sure it would look like a giant bale of hay on my head), she took me back to the styling chair where she blew it dry thoroughly. She went and mixed up the Brazilian concoction and came back, pinning my hair in sections and painting on the mixture with a brush until it was thoroughly saturated.
She then set a timer for twenty minutes, and I sat there and read a magazine (and almost fell asleep I might add). She came back after the twenty minutes was up and took me back to the shampoo chair, where she rinsed the product out. I'm not sure if there was any neutralizer or any other type of solution added to my hair at that time, I was too relaxed to notice much of anything since getting my hair done always makes me a zombie.
I noticed that I did not smell any strong chemicals during this whole time, which was refreshing to me after I've had so many treatments, the Japanese straightening, cold smoothing, and hair coloring, that has smelled very strongly. It did not make my scalp burn or itch at all either. I'm not sure if that's just because of the brand they used or what, but that gave me a good feeling about the safety or it. Now, we were down to the wire.
I was going to see the results of this miraculous treatment finally! She blew my hair out again, then separated it into sections and began to flat iron them one by one, from root to tip. She warned me that my hair would seem very flat over the next three days, almost like it was plastered to my head, but I was already used to that because the same thing had happened with the thermal reconditioning.
She also advised that it was very important that I not get my hair wet or wash it for the next 72 hours, which is three days. I also was not allowed to sweat, so there would be no working out or heavy cardio for the next three days either. I was advised against putting any kind of hair tie or clips in my hair, and not even tucking my hair behind my ears, since the hair shape would be very moldable while the product took hold over the next couple of days.
When she was done flat ironing, I couldn't believe how shiny my hair looked. Plus it was straight - really straight! Almost too straight, but I knew that this was not going to be exactly how straight it would look all the time. The hair itself looked great, but I admit I had a hard time seeing myself with absolutely zero body to my hair. The next three days were torture. As it happened, it rained for three days straight, much to my chagrin.
But I made sure I had my handy umbrella with me at all times and I used it quite a bit during those three days! The hardest part was not getting any moisture on it, as you don't realize how hard it is to do that when you're around water. You still have to shower, so I wore a shower cap and just hoped that it would keep every drop of water out. It worked pretty well except I know a few little droplets got on there when I took it off my head.
My hair really looked good when I left the salon, however, the flatness was really hard for me to deal with. And it looked a bit duller and even flatter the next day. However, I knew that as soon as I washed it, it would look much better. So, the third day FINALLY came, and I washed my hair with my special sodium laurel sulfate free shampoo. By the way, sodium is what takes the product out of the hair faster, so you cannot use any products with sodium based ingredients in them either.
I blew it dry. Wow, it did look pretty amazing. It was not totally poker straight like when I got the thermal reconditioning done, but it was shiny, no frizz, and it had a really healthy look to it and felt silky smooth to the touch. I'd have to say I like the outcome better than the thermal reconditioning, just because I can still have a tiny bit of wave to it with this. I wish it lasted as long, but hey, you can't have everything I suppose!
So that's my review of the Brazilian Keratin hair treatment. I would recommend it to anyone who wants hair that is more manageable with less maintenance, and anyone who wants to tame frizz and eliminate some of the curl from the hair, especially during the treacherous summer months we have here in Ohio where humidity reaches ridiculous levels.
The Brazilian Keratin Hair Treatment - My Experience
Danna Schneider is the owner and primary contributor of several natural health and beauty websites, and frequently reports on her personal experiences with products in this realm. Information on female and male hair loss products and natural ways to help fight hair loss and increase the health of the hair can be found at Female Hair Loss Remedies and additional comparisons and reviews of other natural hair loss products here at Provillus and Profollica Reviews. While frizz is a big problem, hair loss is an even more devastating condition that can be helped by a myriad of natural options.
Boxer Dogs Information - What Are Boxer Dogs?
Boxer dogs are great all around dog breeds, distinguished canine and the coolest, most lovable dog out there! Boxer Dogs are medium-built and strong breed that are so named because of its habit of standing on the hind legs to begin a fight and boxing with the front paws.
By nature, Boxer dogs are working dogs. Throughout history it has been trained as:
- hunting dog
- police dog
- seeing-eye dog for the blind
- guard dog
- circus dog
- courier dog on the battlefields during World War
I and World War II
- fighting dog in the once popular sport of dog fighting.
The American Kennel Club (AKC) categorizes dogs into 7 groups of herding, hound, non-sporting, sporting, terrier, toy and working. And the largest breed registered in the working dog category is the Boxer.
No doubt the Boxer Dogs make for great utility dog but the greatest advantage to owning one is that Boxer Dogs can be your most outstanding companion on four legs and great source of personal fulfillment.
By the way, the AKC registered over 150 different breeds totaling nearly one million dogs in 2003. To put that in perspective, the animal shelters in America rescue up to 12 million homeless dogs and cats every year and 25% of these are purebreds.
Devoted and glad owners of Boxer Dogs have come up with a long list of attributes and traits of their favorite pet that include:
Alert
Boisterous
Boundless energy
Brave
Canine clown
Courageous
Devil dog
Devoted
Dignified
Exuberance
Family dog
Fearless
Friendly
Hearing dog
Highly trainable
Intelligent
Intuitive
Keen judge of character
Loving
Loyal
Patient with children
People dog
Poor swimmer
Playful
Quick learner
Self-assured
Smart
Soulful
Spirited
Stoical
Vigilant
Working dog
Wonderful pet
And you can add to the list...
The Boxer Dog's history could be traced back to feudal Germany, where it was a small hunting dog that could tenaciously hold onto a bull, boar, or bear till the master arrived. It was also a utility dog for peasants and shop owners, and even a performing dog in circus.
The Boxer Dogs as we know it today is a bigger breed - a mixture of the German Boxer with a taller, more elegant English import. The era of this modern Boxer began in the 1880s and became really popular in the United States in the late 1930s-1940s.
Handsome dog: Within the canine world, Boxer Dogs are medium-sized dog standing at 21 to 25 inches at the shoulder for a full-grown female, and weighs some 50 to 65 pounds. The male can be taller and 15 pounds heavier.
It has a striking good look with chiseled head, square jaw and muscled body that make for a very handsome silhouette.
The ears are cropped and erect that enhance its hearing - the Boxer most developed sense. It is always alert and vigilant, an instinctive guard dog.
The shortened muzzle makes hot and humid weather uncomfortable for the Boxer Dogs.
The coat is short, hard and smooth, and possesses a natural sheen that can be enhanced with rubdowns with a chamois cloth (especially after a bath).
The short coat cannot protect him well from extreme elements of the weather and thus Boxer Dogs should definitely not be kept outdoors. It is a housedog, sensitive to temperature extremes, does not enjoy the draft, summer heat or cold.
Boxer Dogs come in attractive basic colors of fawn and brindle. The fawn varies from a tawny tan to an especially beautiful stag red. The brindle (clearly defined black stripes on a fawn background) can be sparse, in between or dense.
A beauty standard for Boxer Dogs is that their white markings or "flash" should add to their look and may not cover more than one-third of the entire body. Some predominantly or all-white puppies (known as "check") may be born in a litter.
In the US, however, the American Boxer Club members are pledged not to register, sell or use these "whites" for breeding so as to retain the beauty of the true fawn and brindle colors in the breed.
Personality-wise, Boxer is a cool dog that will not bark without cause. Its expressive face - the furrowed forehead and dark, soulful eyes - is a charming quality that sets the Boxer apart from other breeds.
It can mimic the moods of its master and adopting one could bring you 9 to 11 years of joyful companionship. In exceptional cases the Boxer can live up to 15 years.
Boxer Dogs As Pet
Pet Boxer Dogs although low-maintenance, require your consistent attention, exercise, human interaction, consistent obedience training and lots of love. You cannot leave them to their own design for too long or they get lonely, bored and into trouble.
Being a big and strong dog as well as a highly intelligent one, Boxer Dogs need both physical and mental stimulations to keep them even-tempered and dignified while still keeping their impish spirit and fearless courage in tact.
All the best!!!
Warm regards,
Bryan Kinnear
A Boxer Dog Lover.
Discover How You Can Make Your Boxer Dog The Happiest, Loving Dog Alive, Running Healthily With You...http://www.boxerdogtips.com
Get free information all about Boxer Dogs at:[http://www.boxerdogs.boxerdogtips.com]
Some of the most common questions among those who fancy model trains relate to model train scale. How do the various scales differ, and which ones are the most popular? Which one is the best model train scale for me?
The choice of model train scales can be confusing since there are several popular scales to choose from. Some train fanciers even mix scales in their setup, in fact. The relationship of a train's actual size to the size of the model is called scale.
The most popular model train scales are listed below so you can understand the differences. I have shown the approximate actual size for one inch of model size, to help you visualize each scale's proportion. The list begins with the biggest models and ranges to the smallest.
Model Train Scale Comparison
G Scale: LGB model trains and G scale model trains are the model trains that are the largest popular scale. G scale is often called garden scale because of the large size. They are fairly easy to run, and don't derail easily. G scale does, however, take up a lot of space, and the paraphernalia can be pricey.
Which is your best model train scale choice? You need to consider your circumstances to decide. Hopefully this synopsis of model train scale has helped you to comprehend the options and to decide which scale best suits your wants, needs and budget.
Model Train Scale - A Simple Comparison
Mike Foster is a model train enthusiast and enjoys helping others learn about this fascinating hobby.
To learn more about model train scale and railroad gauge choices, visit his website: http://model-train-essentials.com
Is your chainsaw starting to seem dull and not perform as well? Looks like it's time to replace the chain. In order to do this, you will need to know the length of both the chainsaw blade as well as the length and size of your chain. If you've checked out the manufacturers' charts, they might seem a little overwhelming. But it really is pretty simple once you understand what's involved in the length of the blade and chainsaw chain.
When you're ready to replace your chain, the first thing to do is determine the size of your chainsaw bar. If you happen to have an Oregon chainsaw, this should be easy. Just check the first two numbers of the ten-digit model number that is stamped on the motor end of the blade. That's your chainsaw bar length.
Don't have an Oregon chainsaw that easily shows you the length of the blade? Then here are some tips for figuring it out yourself.
What's The Best Way To Measure A Chain Saw Blade?
To measure the chainsaw blade itself is simple enough to do. Just put your measuring tape at the end of the bar up against the casing and measure straight down the bar all the way to the tip of the blade.
Blade and bar are two terms that are both used to indicate the same item. This is the blade that extends from the casing of the motor and carries the chain which is what does the sawing for you.
Manufacturers were kind enough to standardize the chainsaw blade lengths into two-inch increments. The most common sizes are 16, 18, and 20 inches although the full range goes from 10 to 42 inches! When you measure your blade, round up to the nearest 2-inch measurement if needed.
Measuring A Chainsaw Chain
To measure the chain on your chainsaw, there are two things you will need to know ... the number of drive links and the pitch of the chain.
A drive link is simply a tooth on the chain and your chain's length is determined by the number of drive links (or teeth). The pitch of the chain also affects the size of the drive links.
The pitch of the chain is important to know as it must match the pitch of both the drive sprocket as well as the bar nose sprocket. This should be stamped on the drive link but if you need to measure the pitch yourself, take the distance between any 3 rivets of the chain and divide by 2.
As an example, a 1/4" pitch chain might have 52 drive links and be 2.17 feet in length, while a 3/8" pitch with 52 drive links would be 3.18 feet in length. So the pitch affects the drive link size which affects your blade's length.
Still unsure? Just check with your chain saw's manufacturer or anyone who makes chains and they will be able to clear up any confusion you may have.
Do You Know How To Measure A Chain Saw Blade And Chain?
So now that you know how to measure a chainsaw chain and chainsaw blade and are ready to buy your replacement, check out the deals that update daily at ChainsawDeals.com
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