Friday, March 30, 2012

Ear scalpelled Stretch au scalpel www.tmgang.c.la Gobs Tattoo rive sud

Ear scalpelled Stretch au scalpel www.tmgang.c.la Gobs Tattoo rive sud Video Clips. Duration : 3.93 Mins.


FOR MORES VIDEOS LIKES THIS VISIT WWW.TMGANG.C.LA

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Thursday, March 29, 2012

How To Stretch Your Ears [18-16]

How To Stretch Your Ears [18-16] Video Clips. Duration : 1.62 Mins.


Goal: 4g (currently 6g) [18-16] Do not skip sizes and wait atleat 6 months or more after you get your ears pierced to start stretching. I've had mine pierced already for almost 8-9 years :)

Keywords: How To Stretch Your Ears, ear gauge, gauge, ear stretch

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

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Tuesday, March 27, 2012

1" 1/2 (38mm) Stretched Ears

1" 1/2 (38mm) Stretched Ears Video Clips. Duration : 0.65 Mins.


follow my twitter: twitter.com Add My Facebook: www.facebook.com Follow My Tumblr: clarkxfischer.tumblr.com

Tags: 1/2, inch, half, ear, stretching, 7/16, stretch, gauge, plug, earlobe, 0g, 00g, 2g, 4g, 6g, 8g, 10g, 12g, 14g, 16g, piercing, pierce, flesh, tunnel, taper, teflon, tape, method, dead, stud, 0g-00g, gauging, gage, gaging, gaged, clark, fischer, clarkfischerfb703

Monday, March 26, 2012

lammy (me) gauging my ear.

lammy (me) gauging my ear. Tube. Duration : 1.88 Mins.


my ears are really sensitive so yeah just a slight fail

Tags: gauge, pain, fail, funny, ouch

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Aircraft GSE

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Tyre inflation equipment.

Tyre service equipment such as tyre pressure gauges and tyre inflators should protect us from tyre explosions. Precautions are still needed.

Gauging Ears

Aircraft wheels can support enormous weights, as in a tug, or withstand the shock of a 100 tons of aircraft contacting the concrete at 150 mph. Compressed gas can produce enormous force and released suddenly, send out pieces of shrapnel like a bomb.

Nitrogen bottle carts.

Nitrogen servicing carts have nitrogen bottles on them with up to 2000 psi in them. High-pressure bottles have the benefit of nitrogen regulators. Nothing should be serviced directly from a high-pressure source without nitrogen regulators or oxygen regulators to control it.

There is the danger of damaged wheels. Of course, wheels should be deflated before removal. Reinflating wheels for the first time after buildup can be challenging if there is a flaw in the hub.

This should only be done with the wheel inside a cage built for the purpose. Split hubs with through-bolts can fail and so can split-rim wheels where the locking ring comes loose.

Only dry nitrogen is allowed in aircraft wheels with brakes. If a hot wheel were filled with air, ie lots of oxygen in it, and the hot rubber of the wheel gives off gases, it can actually combust inside.

Tyre deflators.

Brakes sometimes drag or an aircraft may make a rejected takeoff, which means lots of heat in the brake and the wheel. This heat can be hot enough to melt the rubber in the tyre or actually set it alight. Fusible plugs may, or may not release the air in the tyre. Never approach an overheated wheel on the side where the hub is. Approach from the tread side only. Tyre deflators are available for deflating tyres that are dangerously hot or actually on fire, or have cracked pieces of rim broken away.

Tyre inflation equipment calibration and servicing is a necessity and not a luxury.

Aircraft GSE

aviation-database.com is a great help to anyone operating within the industry. "Buying from" or "selling to" aerospace companies, you can put contact emails straight into your address book in Outlook Express, you can compile a list of addresses in a print basket, you can use hotlinks to bounce straight onto other aerospace company websites. newbow aerospace aircraft gse is an article provided to aviation-database by a specialist company in the field of specialist aircraft ground support equipment, in recognition of the website's value to the industry as a means of targeting advertising.

Saturday, March 24, 2012

Check Out 18 gauge Earring-Tiny 1/4 inch Surgical Stainless Steel 18 gauge Circular / Horseshoe Barbell-Lip Ring-Cartilage Earring-Tragus Jewelry

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Friday, March 23, 2012

Best cheap 00g Rebel Flag Logo Tapers Gauges Pair 00 Gauge 10mm

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Thursday, March 22, 2012

ear lobe stretching 16g-14g

ear lobe stretching 16g-14g Tube. Duration : 2.72 Mins.


this is me stretching my ears from 16g-14g, like the title says. to be honest, i dont think i waited long enough to let my lobe heal. but ill just let it heal extra long this time. this video was filmed abou t 2 weeks before the day it was actually uploaded. please enjoy.

Tags: shane, polk, 08, 16g-14g, gauge, gauges, ear, stretching, stretched, ears, lobes

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

How to Make Ear Stretchers (tapers) for Starters and How to Put it On

How to Make Ear Stretchers (tapers) for Starters and How to Put it On Tube. Duration : 13.38 Mins.


call me crazy but this saves u some money! and u can stretch a 22g or 20g ear pierce [standard size] into a 10g or 12g. nail polishes used : santee : beach blue M68 santee: beach pink M64 santee: black M33 Music : skye sweetnam - music is my boyfriend skye sweetnam - human skye sweetnam - my favorite tune skye sweetnam - baby doll gone wrong no music belongs to me! facebook: www.facebook.com myspace: www.myspace.com tOKBOX: www.tokbox.com twitter: www.twitter.com/ScarlettREX

Tags: how, to, make, ear, stretchers, tapers, for, beginners, and, stretch, them, easy, 22g, 20g, into, 12g, 10g, gauges!, health, discussion

1 1/4 Update #based edition

1 1/4 Update #based edition Tube. Duration : 0.48 Mins.


my goal size is a 2 inches but health ears are a beat we all can dance too...what the fuck did i just say...

Keywords: 1/4, stretch, update, ears, ear, stretching, gauging, gauged, gauges, plugs, silicone, tunnels, throat, corset, body, modifications, piercings, lobes, lobe, gauge, taper, flesh, DERMAL, ANCHORS, anchor, anatometal, organic, go, green, mod, art, tattoos, sleeves, blackwork, beck, wilson, modern, dey, boss, fingers, back, front, labret, vertical, snakebites, angelbites, snake, bites, angel, tragus, conch, lip, disk, plate

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

How to Handle a Pit Bull Attack (And Knowing Your Legal Rights)

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Pitbull attacks (And dog attacks in general) can be a difficult topic to address. Dogs are such an integral part of our society and are often considered a member of the family. Yet every year 4.7 million people are victims of dog attacks in the United States, and routinely the pit bull is either #1 or #2 when it comes to breeds most responsible. This is a trend that isn't going away, and it is our responsibility to know how to defend ourselves, and how to pursue legal recourse.

Let's start off by talking about the idea of self defense against a pit bull. These animals are intimidating and scary when not trained properly, but if you follow a few solid guidelines you can greatly increase your ability to handle the situation.

Gauging Ears

Phase 1 - Common Sense and Avoidance

It might seem obvious after reading some of these tips, but they bear repeating just in case you find yourself in a 'this couldn't happen to me' mentality.

1. Know your location. What are your usual stomping grounds? When you take walks, are there any dogs on the route? Are there any pit bulls? If you are in unfamiliar territory, have you taken any precautions about the possibility of attack?

2. Assess dependents. Even if you do know your location, you need to gauge the probability of having someone along with you. Having an adult with you could be helpful during a pit bull attack, but having a small child or dog could be troublesome.

3. Know your physical abilities. Are you in great shape, able to actively defend yourself? Whether you are or not will greatly change how you need to prepare for the possibility of attack.

4. Plan a wide-berth strategy. If you walk by a house regularly that has a pit bull, or even just see one on the street, try to give it a wide berth. Dogs in general are very territorial and a simple act of crossing to the opposite side of the road can downplay their aggressive nature.

Phase 2 - De-escalation

Even with good planning incidences can be unavoidable. Here are some tips to turn a potentially bad situation into no situation at all.

1. Show confidence and hide fear. As much as we depend on verbal communication as humans, pit bulls detect just as much through your body tensions, odors, and mannerisms. If you tense up and emit a fearful 'scent', they will pick up on it and could even be encouraged by it. Be cool, natural, and in command.

2. Be mindful of your hands. When around a pit bull or other aggressive dog, avoid quick, large hand movements. Furthermore, if the dog is sniffing around your hands, hold them in a loose fist (this will take away easy nipping real estate).

3. Don't show your teeth. Even if you are trying to be nice and smiley, avoid barring your teeth. It's a subtle psychological thing, but can have a real effect.

4. Slowly back away. Do not turn and run. This is very important. The canine chase reflex is extremely dominant, especially for dogs that are trained to attack, like some pit bulls are.

5. Go dominant if passive confidence fails. You always want to try to be calm and non-confrontational at first. However, if the situation continues to go badly, try asserting yourself as a dominant figure. Shout common commands and become a stern persona.

Phase 3 - Self Defense

Unfortunately with pit bulls, psychology can only get you so far. These can be aggressive, unflinching animals and you may have to defend yourself. here are some good tactics.

1. Projectiles and Sprays. The first piece of advice is also the most commonly effective. Pepper sprays are easily carried and can be sprayed in the eyes of an attacking dog. Furthermore, although it is lethal, there is no disputing the effectiveness of using handguns. Just be mindful of the possible legal recourse against you - make sure you weren't trespassing on someone's property when using the weapon and that you are properly licensed.

2. Distancing tools. More common than pepper spray is something of a stick variety. By that I mean a cane, walking stick, umbrella, etc. These long objects can be used to thrust, swing, and distract the bite of a dog. Very valuable and easily carried.

3. Unarmed combat. It won't be pretty, but there are unarmed options for handling a pit bull. When striking the animal, aim for the nose, eyes, and ears. These are all very sensitive and could help to disorient the animal. On long snouted dogs you have the option of clamping the mouth shut with your hands, but that is a bit more difficult on pitbulls. If possible and necessary, dogs can be grappled from behind and put into a standard choke hold - one arm cinched tightly under the neck with the other compressing the lock inward. one final method of attack is grabbing the legs of the animal and pulling them apart abruptly, breaking the knees.

4. Nonessential bites. If things are happening too quickly for intelligent self defense, try to give the animal a non-essential bite. Give your non-dominant arm in the hopes of using your good arm to perform soft-spot striking.

5. Playing dead. If you feel you simply have no method of defending yourself against the animal, curl into the fetal position and play dead. Attempt to protect your vitals like your throat and hope the pit bull becomes uninterested in a non-combative prey.

Legal Recourse

Pit bull and dog attacks can be traumatizing and lethal. it's important to know that you aren't alone in trying to resolve the matter and seeking professional legal counsel is highly advised.

But before you can even acquire a good attorney, here are some pieces of advice for preparing yourself.

1. Try to secure witnesses to the dog biting event. Many dog attacks happen in public or in the home of an acquaintance/family member. In public you actually have a better means of recourse because complete strangers present at the event can vouch for you. In other situations it becomes a my-word-vs-his-word scenario.

2. Attempt to address the owners about the situation, but be prepared for complete denial of fault on the part of the dog. Remember, people will treat their animal like a family member, and will protect it as such. However, it is important that you know about the dog's documentation and rabies situation.

3. If you have a chance, take pictures of the injury. However don't waste time if you need immediate medical attention.

4. Get immediate medical attention. Bleeding, infection, scarring, or worse are all possibilities, so you need to get to a hospital as soon as possible. This is also variable depending on the size of the injury.

5. Secure good, legal counsel. If you are unfamiliar with dog specialists in your area, use a service that can find one for you. Don't settle for second rate help or outrageous legal fees.

How to Handle a Pit Bull Attack (And Knowing Your Legal Rights)

Bill Hayes is owner of The Hayes Firm, a specialized personal injury attorney network designed to find the best lawyer for each individual client. Every incident is unique, and it's important to have someone with many years of experience and an extensive network to help you find the right kind of attorney. Dog Attacks are one of Bill's specialties and he will be able to properly guide you through the legal process and get you the help you need. Visit today and receive a free legal consultation!

Monday, March 19, 2012

Ear Taping- The Easiest, Quickest, Cheapest and Least painful way to stretch your ears

Ear Taping- The Easiest, Quickest, Cheapest and Least painful way to stretch your ears Video Clips. Duration : 5.23 Mins.


FTC: i did not get paid to do this video, i did not receive anything for free

Keywords: how, to, get, gauge, faster, ptfe, electrical, tape, electric, 2g, 0g, 00g, 4g, 6g, 8g, 10g, 12g, 14g, 1/2, 3/4, 5/8, singing, your, way, quality, stretch, cosmetics, health, discussion, video log, vlog, commentary, haircut, always, lip, own, sings, gauging, lady, gaga, stretching, weights, dead, tunnel, plug, taper, silicone, kaos, song, easy, lip sync, gotta, out, singer, forever, trying, back

Sunday, March 18, 2012

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Saturday, March 17, 2012

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Piercing My BFFs Ears!

Piercing My BFFs Ears! Tube. Duration : 2.18 Mins.


After Piercing my own ear and gauging two, I decided to give it a go at piercing my Best Friend's second ear holes. This is not painful. You can do it at home, but make sure EVERYTHING is clean!!!!!

Keywords: piercing, ear, bff, friend, friends, best

Thursday, March 15, 2012

HOW MEN GAUGE THEIR EARS

HOW MEN GAUGE THEIR EARS Video Clips. Duration : 2.48 Mins.


ISAAC GOIN FROM A 8 TO A 4, CRAZY MUTHERTRUCKER

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Wednesday, March 14, 2012

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Tuesday, March 13, 2012

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Monday, March 12, 2012

Q&A video~

Q&A video~ Video Clips. Duration : 9.25 Mins.


Unedited, for your pleasure. ;D Qs: 1.) What made you want to stretch? 2.) Is that a promise ring or engagement ring? 3.) How old are you? 4.) How old were you when you started stretching? 5.) Do you want/plan on getting any other mods? 6.) What's your favorite band? 7.) What's your favorite movie? 8.) What's your favorite TV show? 9.) What's your favorite color? 10.) What's your favorite animal? 11.) How long have you been stretching? 12.) What other piercings do you like? 13.) What size do you plan on stopping at? 14.) Do you have experience stretching cartilage?

Tags: stretched ears, gauged ears, ear stretching, ear gauging, ear gauges, gauges, plugs, tunnels, 25mm, body mods, Q&A, question and answer, answers, kitties, meow

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Becky Gauging her ear.

Becky Gauging her ear. Video Clips. Duration : 1.78 Mins.


My sister Becky was trying to put a taper in one of her ears.. x3

Tags: Movie, on, 2012, 02, 04, at, 15, 01

Antibiotics For Sinus Infections

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Antibiotics are medicines that have anti-bacterial properties. This means that they are drugs that can kill bacteria or prevent them from multiplying within our body. However, they are ineffective against viruses which cause the common cold and viral influenza.

When the immune system in our body is healthy, it is able to fend off bacterial invasions effectively. The antibodies and white blood cells can usually destroy harmful bacteria before they can multiply sufficiently to cause symptoms of an illness. Even when symptoms do occur, a healthy body is still able to fight off the infection. But when our immune system is impaired, the body is unable to contain the bacterial infection and extra help is needed. This is where antibiotics come in.

Gauging Ears

Classes of Antibiotics

The following are the most common classes of antibiotics in use today:

* Penicillins

* Macrolides

* Cephalosporins

* Fluoroquinolones

Antibiotics are classified as narrow-spectrum drugs when they work against only a few types of bacteria. Broad-spectrum antibiotics, on the other hand, affect many types of bacteria. But, the use of broad-spectrum antibiotics presents the danger of promoting antibiotic resistance. For that reason, narrow-spectrum antibiotics, which usually cost less, are prescribed whenever possible. Broad-spectrum antibiotics are generally not prescribed unless the condition of the patient warrants it.

Penicillins(Narrow-spectrum antibiotics)

Bacteria feed by absorbing nutrients from the human host and growing until they are large enough to split in two. This is how bacteria reproduce and multiply. As they grow they have to produce more cell wall. Penicillin works by interfering with the bacteria cell wall building function. The growing bacteria eventually burst through their cell walls. This kills the bacteria and ends the infection. The commonly prescribed antibiotic for sinus infection by general practitioners is Amoxicillin.

Cephalosporins(Broad-spectrum antibiotics)

Like penicillins, cephalosporins destroys bacteria by inhibiting bacterial cell wall synthesis. Ceftibuten dihydrate is a semisynthetic, third generation cephalosporins for oral administration. Besides being an effective antibiotic for sinus infection prescribed by ENT specialists today, cephalosporins are given to patients who are allergic to penicillins.

Macrolides(Narrow-spectrum antibiotics)

Macrolides work by slowing or blocking protein formation in bacteria. Their action is mainly bacteriostatic, which means that they do not directly destroy the bacteria but curb them from multiplying thereby allowing the body's immune system to eradicate the organism. However, large doses of macrolides can also kill the bacteria. Macrolides cause very little allergy problems compared to the penicillins and cephalosporins. The most commonly prescribed macrolides are erythromycin and clarithromycin. Clarithromycin is the favorite antibiotic for sinus infection in this class of antibiotics prescribed by ENT specialists.

Fluoroquinolones(Broad-Spectrum antibiotics)

This is the latest and newest class of antibiotics. Fluoroquinolones kill bacteria by interfering with replication process of bacterial DNA. This is accomplished by binding to and inhibiting the action of one of the enzymes involved in DNA replication. Moxifloxacin is the preferred antibiotic for sinus infection in this class.

Which is the best antibiotic for sinus infection?

This is a difficult question to answer, really. The choice of the best antibiotic is dependent on many factors as follows:

1. How quickly the drug is absorbed into the bloodstream?

2. How quickly the body eliminates the drug?

3. The nature and severity of the illness.

4. The probability of allergies and other serious reactions or side effects to the drug.

5. The cost of the drug.

If it is a mild sinus infection, then a narrow-spectrum drug like Amoxicillin could be prescribed. If it is a chronic case of sinus infection, then the newer class of broad-spectrum antibiotics such as Moxifloxacin could be administered. It is sometimes difficult to gauge because what works for one may not work for another under similar conditions.

In other words, the best antibiotic for sinus infection is the one that is prescribed by your physician. He is in the best position to decide after taking into consideration the variety of factors mentioned earlier. However, it must also be noted that certain groups of people may have very strong adverse reactions to some classes of antibiotics. So care must be taken to watch out for symptoms of an allergic reaction.

Antibiotics For Sinus Infections

Do you know that there are 5 proven natural home remedies for sinus infection? Adopt these simple remedies and you will never need antibiotics again! For more information pls visit Help for Sinus Infection

Saturday, March 10, 2012

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Friday, March 9, 2012

Stretching my ears- 4g to 2g

Stretching my ears- 4g to 2g Tube. Duration : 1.37 Mins.


title pretty much sums it up. **EDIT** I no longer have them in.

Tags: ear, strecthing

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Gauging Ears :D

Gauging Ears :D Video Clips. Duration : 4.97 Mins.


Gauging Ears With Liberty :D

Keywords: Gauging

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

ear stretching, 1"&1/16--1"&1/8, taping day 1

ear stretching, 1"&1/16--1"&1/8, taping day 1 Tube. Duration : 1.13 Mins.


1 wrap of tape around each plug sorry to lazy to do HD video because its 5am here :(

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Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Christen Gauging His Ears

Christen Gauging His Ears Tube. Duration : 8.83 Mins.


Christen decided to go and gauge his ears in one time shot till size 4 waw hmm...

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Monday, March 5, 2012

Hook Up A Receiver For Your Home Theater

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What is a Receiver?

A receiver is that big, heavy thing that you plug your speakers and other components into (like a DVD player, TV, CD player, Xbox, PlayStation, iPod, and etc.). Its the "brain" of the show, really. The idea of connecting all your components to a receiver is the concept of audio/video switching, allowing you to switch to different video sources (like TV, DVD, camcorder) on your TV
and thus changing the audio source accordingly - all without touching anything but the receiver.

Gauging Ears

Of course, the main purpose behind audio/video switching with a receiver is to drive audio to external speakers, like surround sound or stereo speakers.

Most receivers have a plethora of inputs; up to 8 speakers and a subwoofer (more commonly, 5.1, or five speakers and a subwoofer), several video inputs, and even HDMI inputs. You could plug your Xbox, Plasma, and DVD player into the receiver and use one remote to switch between all the different video sources (games, TV, DVD video) and have your speakers pump out surround-sound. Let's start with inputs and outputs. If you don't understand something, read through the entire How-To as most of it will be explained in detail.

Keep in mind that a receiver is the hub of your entire home theatre, so this How-To will actually guide you through the basics of connecting your complete home theater.

So what the heck is all this 'stuff' on the back of your receiver?

I'm going to go over just about anything that you would find on the back of your receiver. The one I'm basing this guide off of is a Harman Kardon AVR-247 I'm going to start from the top left of the unit and work my way to the right, then I'll start at the left of the next row and so on.

The first three inputs are for antennas. An FM antenna cable would slide on to the first jack while two speaker wires would plug into the remaining slots for AM. Of course, you don't have to plug your antennas in, but if you'd like AM/FM reception through your speakers, you'll want to go ahead and do that. These are standard connections, so if you lose one of your antennas, just go buy another for a few bucks.

You've probably heard of composite video. Its a very basic video connection used by most any component (TV, DVD, VCR especially). Its common and its cheap. As such, its very low quality.
Composite uses an RCA cable for video (yellow) and two more RCA cables for audio (red and white, stereo). The problem is that a composite video cable combines luminance and chrominance in the same cable, reducing the quality of the picture. You lose a lot of sharpness, and the color begins to degrade from the original source. Its useful when you need the extra input or the device you're connecting only has composite video. Otherwise, use something else, like component video. Sounds similar; very different.

S-Video is next in line after composite. It uses a different type of connector (five pins in a circle) and gives you marginally better video quality. It is also a video-only cable, so you'll need to plug in audio separately. In this case, you'll probably use a pair of red and white RCA cables for your audio inputs.

Next up: a ton of composite audio inputs. These inputs use left channel and right channel RCA cables, typically red and white. They look just like the yellow composite video cable, and you could even use them for video and the yellow for audio, but let's keep the color scheme how it is ;) Composite audio is the bottom-of-the-barrel in audio. Its perfectly fine for most use, but if you're looking for high quality surround sound, you don't want composite. Game systems, like the Wii or Xbox, and very basic DVD players are a perfect match for composite audio.

The same goes to VCRs, CD players, and anything that only has a composite audio output. Plus, if you don't have surround sound, or your receiver is only two channels (2.1, stereo sound), you won't be able to use anything but composite audio. Note that there is a composite audio input under each composite video input so that it is easy to match them up. Plug them in the wrong inputs and you won't get sound when you're on that particular video input.

Here we have one of the least-used features of a modern receiver: 6 (or 8) channel direct input. This is only used for two purposes: SACD or DVD Audio. SACD is an acronym for Super Audio CD. It is a proprietary audio format developed by Sony for special CDs that are recorded in 5.1 surround sound. That means you need a CD or DVD/CD player that supports SACDs, a receiver with SACD support (as in the picture), and of course Super Audio CD's. DVD Audio is the same idea, different brand, different media (its a DVD, not a CD!).

DVD Audio discs are special DVDs that are recorded in 5.1 surround sound and can only be played by devices with support for them. These CDs go all the way up to 7.1 surround sound, meaning you would need to have two front, two rear, two side speakers and a subwoofer to enjoy full 7.1 surround sound. Most receivers support up to 7.1 now but you won't find DVDs with that kind of capability for movies. 5.1 surround is still the defacto standard, so don't run out and buy more speakers any time soon.

You could skip this next little item because it is unique to this brand of receiver (Harman Kardon). The Bridge" is a proprietary connection they developed for you to connect
an iPod. You need to buy a separate component that includes a docking station and special cables to connect the iPod. It fully integrates with the receiver, displaying
menus and songs on the front LCD screen of the receiver. This allows you to easily pump your tunes through your speakers, whether it be stereo sound or full surround sound.

Of course, the music on your iPod is stereo sound, so the best you can get is simulated surround sound or stereo surround; the same music playing in the front two channels
is put through the rear and center channels. Some receivers do this more intelligently than others, but more on that later.

Here we have our high-end sound inputs/outputs. Basically the same performance wise, you have fiber optic connections (with the square shape) and digital coaxial (just like an RCA cable).
Both of these are 100% digital, whereas composite is analog. The only way you can get true surround sound from any source is by using one of these connections (or the SACD/DVD Audio option)

Almost all DVD players these days have either optical or digital coaxial outputs (sometimes, both). Many high definition cable and satellite boxes also come with these
connections so you can enjoy 5.1 surround sound on high definition channels. Choosing between the two, there's really no different in audio quality, so feel free to use
what you'd like (or what you're forced to).

I don't think I need an image for the next plug. Its a pair of power inputs. One is for powering the receiver, the other for whatever you'd like. This way, when you turn
on the receiver, you give power to the other device (be it a DVD player, CD player, cable box, whatever). I don't necessarily recommend this unless it specifically suits
your needs. It is useful if you're running low on outlets, of course.

Something else you'll never use: D-bus RC-5 input/output. This is used for infrared remote controls to take over your home theater system. Honestly, its not something any of us will ever use. Some of the real high-end junkies might be using something for it, but I've never even come across a device that uses this technology. Stick to the remote that came with your unit, or buy a quality universal remote control. There's no need for this option. An alternate use for this may be a bit more common: if your receiver's front panel is blocked (like inside a cabinet), you could get an infrared transmitter to latch on to the front of it. This transmitter would hook up to another device somewhere in your room that will accept signals from your remote control. The receiving device then transmits the remote's commands to your receiver (via the transmitter you've attached to the front over the regular infrared transmitter).

Pre-outs , located right under the Remote in/out. Pre-outs are used when you'd like to add an amplifier to your system to boost the power (and hence volume/audio quality). Average
users will not use this for anything but the subwoofer preout. You'll want to run a subwoofer cable from your subwoofer to the subwoofer pre-out to provide it with
the right frequencies. This is the proper way to connect your subwoofer to your surround sound system. The other inputs won't be used unless you plan on adding
an amplifier. This is highly unnecessary for home use. You might add an amp if you're trying to fill a room the size of a small house with enough sound, but you're not, right?

Here we finally get to the meat of the system: the speaker inputs! Harman Kardon receivers use bind posts for connecting speakers, as seen in the picture. They
work by being loosened up as your turn them counter-clockwise, then you sneak the speaker wire in underneath the caps and tighten them back up by turning clockwise. This'll
give your speaker wire a nice tug fit that probably won't loosen up on itself over time. Other brands may use other types of connectors, but bind posts are very common.
You might have been able to tell this is a 7.1 channel receiver because of the speaker inputs.

You've got room for 2 front left and right speakers, 2 rear left and right speakers,
a center channel, and two left and right "surround" channels which are placed somewhere in between your front and rear speakers ("side surround", or 7.1). If you have enough
speakers, you can go ahead and plug in those extra 2 side ones, but they won't play any sound at all on a 5.1 DVD. You would need a DVD that supports 7.1
surround sound, and at this time, there just isn't a market for it. CDs will gladly blast stereo surround through all 7 speakers, though, so for some larger rooms, that's an
advantage.

Our final set of connectors for this receiver: component video . The best video you can get next to composite or s-video. You'll notice its a set of three cables (all for video),
usually Red, Green and Blue. Don't think that's what the cable does, though - it separates the video signal by luminance and two separate color channels. In the past, component
did it in fact represent R, G, B (splitting the primary colors in transmit and recombining them at the destination device), but that is not used in current component video
connections. Component video can carry high definition signals, all the way up to 1080p, so it is the most cost effective and readily available high definition input.
Not seen on this receiver are DVI and HDMI, the two all-digital video connections.

HDMI is the newest, fastest, sharpest video and audio connection available today. Its the only cable that can carry audio and video in one - not to mention, in high definition.
HDMI must be supported by the source and the display you're connecting it to to use all of its features. Not all DVD players, cable boxes, or receivers support both
audio and video in HDMI. Its becoming more and more of a standard now to support both. The advantage is clear: less cable clutter, higher quality audio and video. You can get up
to 1080p high definition video and 7.1 surround sound through an HDMI cable. Newer cable and satellite boxes, DVD players, high definition DVD players, and more expensive receivers
support the full capability of HDMI. Its the best you can get as all-digital goes.

The last connection for this article is DVI. DVI is also all digital like HDMI, but it cannot process audio signals. HDMI may provide a technically superior image,
but I don't think anyone could tell the difference. DVI supports high definition video all the way up to 1080p, just like HDMI. Its being used less frequently now,
but if you've bought a new computer or video card for your PC recently, it probably has a DVI (or two) port on it. Most computer monitors use DVI now and video cards
have followed suit. HDMI is edging its way into the PC market, but its dominance is seen in the home theater arena.

Now that you've familiarized yourself with common connections, let's plug it all together.

This part of the receiver How-To is going to guide you through hooking a 5.1 surround sound system(5 speakers and a subwoofer) with a high-definition TV, a high-definition cable or satellite box, a DVD player, and a 5.1 receiver.

Your TV & Components

Where you put your TV is dependent on how large it is, how large your room is, and where you will be sitting. If its 50 inches, don't sit more than 10-15 feet away; but no less, either.
A 60" set is perfect for 12-20 feet. If you have a 32 inch set, try to sit no farther than 8-12 feet away. Your receiver, DVD player, cable box, and other components should obviously be close together, but don't place them physically on top of each other. They all get hot, especially your receiver. If you have no other choice, slide a thin piece of plywood between the components to help dispense the heat.

Lay Out of Speakers

The first step is to lay out your setup. Different rooms call for different locations for your speakers and subwoofer. If your room is a typical rectangle, go ahead and place your two front left and right speakers somewhere flush with the television on that side of the room. Your left speaker goes toward the left corner, right speaker toward the right corner. Don't bother with speaker wire yet (unless your speakers come with speaker wire attached already; in that case, just let them dangle for now). Note that which speaker is left or right is solely dependent on how you connect them to your receiver. Your speakers aren't actually designated "left" or "right".

Depending on how you acquired your speakers, your front speakers could be larger than your rear speakers. That's how you know they're for the front. Otherwise, all your speakers are the same shape and size, and you can use each for any purpose.

One exception: the center channel. Usually, a center channel is much shorter and wider than your other speakers. It should only be used for the center channel. Sometimes, all 5 of your speakers could be the same, usually on a very inexpensive setup. You can use any of these speakers for any purpose.

Your center channel should always go either directly on top or under your television set. However you have to do this, get it done! It's not called the center channel for nothing, you know. Any movie will pump out almost 90% of the voices you hear and a majority of the rest of the sounds through the center channel. It is a vitally important component to your surround sound setup.

Your subwoofer should always be on the floor. If it is impossible to place it on the floor, get it as close to the floor as possible. Placing it behind objections or in closets will diminish its effects. In a perfect setup, the subwoofer would be on the floor close to the TV (perhaps off to the left or right) in your line of sight. Nothing should block the side of the subwoofer that air will come out of (usually covered by a grill protecting the subwoofer speaker itself).

When it comes to finding a good spot for your speakers, you might want to mount them. You can usually buy compatible speaker mounts online or in stores. You can also
use existing shelving, buy some shelving, or place them on tables or other objects. No matter how you do it, try to keep the speakers as close to ear level as possible. A speaker mounted at the ceiling of your room isn't going to give you the optimal aural experience.

The last thing to keep in mind about layout is speaker wire. You'll probably need at least 100ft of speaker wire, but you'll often find yourself using much more if you
try running wire through your ceiling, under carpeting, up through the basement, or around objects to conceal it. Take measurements and buy at least 10% more wire than
you think you need. You'll probably use it!

Cabling

You need to know the different kind of speaker wire available to you before setting up your home theatre. If you bought an HTIB (home theater in a box), it probably came with 100ft of horribly cheap speaker wire. You don't want that! Do yourself a favor: buy some high-quality, 14-gauge speaker wire. Anything higher than 14-gauge is just to thin and will be susceptible to interence, quality loss, and poor quality over longer distances. Fourteen gauge is a good thickness and suitable for most home theatres. Make sure its also not too thick - some speaker wire simply will not fit in to the speaker wire jacks on some receivers.

Some receivers use proprietary speaker inputs. Sony is one example. Many Sony receivers have special connectors for speaker wire and will not accept a standard speaker wire. You'll need to use either the Sony-provided speaker wire, take the ends off of Sony speaker wire and put it on your own, or buy some of these special connectors from Sony directly to place on your speaker wire. My recommendation? Avoid any receivers with non-standard speaker wire posts/jacks/connectors. Look for bind posts or other jacks that allow you to slide in and clamp down on a typical speaker wire.

Once you've got your speaker wire sorted out, you'll have to do some cutting and stripping if you opted to purchase your own. This is way easier than it sounds, so don't worry!

Measure out each length one at a time, cutting the speaker wire with either really great scissors or a sharp blade. Now you need to strip the ends of the wire. Use either a stripping tool or plain old scissors. You can place the scissors on the cable and gently apply some pressure as you twist the scissors around the cable, carefully slicing into the plastic coating. Eventually, it'll get weak enough that you can just slide it off by tugging on it with your fingers. You need at least 1/4" of exposed wire.

Now you can connect your speakers. Note on your speaker wire the difference between the two ends. You'll need to use one as your positive and one as your negative. Sometimes the coating is a different color between the two or there is text on one and not on the other. Keep track of this - whichever side you use for positive on your speaker, use it for positive on your receiver. Crossing the two can cause damage, either immediately or sometime in the future. It might work this way but you don't want it to!

Connecting the speakers is easy enough. Front left to front left on your receiver, center speaker to center on your receiver, etc... Your rear speakers may be referred to as "Surround" or "Rear Surround" instead of just "Rear", but keep in mind, if you have a 7.1 or 8.1 channel receiver, "Surround" may indicate side surround speakers, not rear speakers.

Subwoofers

Your subwoofer is going to be a little more complicated. There are a few different ways to do it and many variations of inputs/ouputs on the back side of subwoofers. I'm going to go with the most standard and efficient method first.

You will need a subwoofer cable for connecting your sub. If you don't have one or don't want to buy one, you can substitute it for a standard red or white RCA cable (or a pair, since they are usually connected; just let the other cable dangle). It will work, but its really not the best way to do it. You'll also need whats called a Y adapter. On the back of your sub, there should be a left/right input (red and white). You plug the Y adapter in to these connections and then your subwoofer cable (or RCA cable) in the other end of the Y (note: if you don't have a Y adapter, just choose the left or right input to plug into).

Now, take the other end of your cable and plug it into your receiver's
subwoofer preout. Hopefully you have a powered sub, meaning it gets plugged into an AC power outlet. All you need to do now is plug that in and your subwoofer is good to.

If you don't have RCA jacks on your subwoofer, or it only has speaker wire jacks (and its most likely not powered), you'll need to connect it the old fashioned way. Your front left and right speakers will plug into your subwoofer's ouput jacks instead of your receiver. You'll then run speaker wire from the left and right inputs on the subwoofer to your left and right speaker outputs on your receiver. This way, the subwoofer is powered by the receiver and will not work as well as a powered sub. You also take some power away from your front speakers with this method. A good idea is to buy a new, powered subwoofer with line in RCA jacks.

Connecting the Dots

You've got the hard stuff out of the way. Now finish it up by connecting your TV, DVD, and cable/satellite box. Always try using the best options first. If your DVD
has HDMI and so does your receiver, use it. If your DVD only has composite, s-video, and component, use component video cable. When it comes to audio, you absolutely need
to use digital coaxial (jacks are usually orange) or fiber optic (usually the jack is recessed into the unit and has a door on it; when the door is open, a red light is visible). If you do not use either of these two, you won't get true surround sound! When all else fails, resort to composite (red and white) audio connectors.

Note: Look closely at the connections on your receiver. Everything is labeled, like the first set of red, green, and blue component video inputs might be labeled "Comp 1". If you're using composite audio cablesfor your sound, you'll need to plug them into the jacks that coordinate with "Comp 1". This might not be clear by looking at the receiver, so refer to your receiver's manual to figure out which video inputs use which audio inputs. Most often, you'll be able to configure them from the receiver's internal menu using the remote control.

On some receivers, all the component video inputs, for example, are linked to a single composite audio input (usually "DVD"), so if you connect more than one of the component inputs, you will be competing for sound when more than one device is active. This is why you'd want to configure the component inputs to use different audio inputs.

Your manual is the only way to figure out how to go about it. Composite video will usually match up to composite audio inputs with naming conventions like Video 1 -> Video 1, Video 2 -> Video 2, etc., but cables like component and DVI may not. You should also configure digital audio inputs to match up with the video inputs you're planning on using. For example, if you're using a digital coaxial input (possibly "Digital 1"), and you use component video, you'll want to match "Digital 1" with "Comp 1". Again, refer to your users manual for how to do this.

Hook Up A Receiver For Your Home Theater

Article by Joe Chianese

Joe is the creator and editor of HowToHookItUp.com a website specializing in hooking up your home theater, computer, and general audio/visual needs.

Check out the HowToHookItUp.com Audio/Video Glossary.

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Saturday, March 3, 2012

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